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A Lesson in Condiment Marketing

When I first moved to the UK I was introduced to this dark brown condiment with Marmite-like consistency called “Bovril”. It’s a salty, sticky, beef extract paste. I had never heard about this spread and was shocked when I found out it is used not only as a condiment but also as a drink? With just one spoonful mixed with hot water, you’ve got yourself “beef tea”.

This beverage is commonly drunk at football matches when spectators are stuck in the cold for hours on end, supporting their favorite team, shivering away with chattering teeth.

I spent most of last week sick at home and managed to drink lots and lots of beef tea. This is when I got thinking about its marketing. I find it absolutely delicious but it’s not a cool, trendy condiment whatsoever. It’s just a salty, beefy drink drunk mainly by old men. My English friends all make fun of me for loving it so much - see comments on this video…

For the past few years now, bone broth is all the craze… You’re likely to fall upon a stand at your local farmer’s market selling a cup of it for $10. Kylie Jenner and other big celebs are known to drink it every morning. Erewhon (miss you sm) even sells their broth and adds in extra “healthy” ingredients like reishi and pine pollen?

But what is bone broth? A stock made from boiled animal bones. And what is Bovril? beef extract made from simmering beef bones. They’re the exact same thing and Bovril costs about £4 and contains over 20 portions… Turns out, Bovril even sells a chicken version! I need to get my hands on some and try it out for myself.

If the condiment was marketed as condensed bone broth and not as beef paste or extract, it would reach not only the older generation but also Gen Z.

Let’s jump into the history of Bovril because duh, I’m me and this is the most fascinating part about the condiment. It was invented under the orders of Napoleon in 1870 who needed to feed his troops. Although he had requested canned beef to feed his French troops, Scottish scientist John Lawson Johnston created a "fluid extract of beef" when living in Canada. This way, troops could spread the beef on toast or drink it. Prior to his scientific endeavors, Johnston was an apprentice in his family butcher shop so this is a world he was adept in.

The world Bovril comes from the Latin word for Ox, Bovine. And the -vril? Inspired by a popular novel of the time “The Power of the Coming Race” by Edward Bulwer-Lytton, “vril” is the word for the energy-boosting fluid or elixir.

Personally, I love it on buttered toast, drizzled atop tomatoes, under smashed avocado on sourdough, mixed in with rice etc. It’s an incredible gravy starter and adds that extra oomph to any soup or stew. Although it’s not marketed to be trendy, thank goodness because I can always find it on shelves. It’s reliable, delicious, nutritious and always in my pantry.

I’ll leave you with a drawing of the Pope and Bovril. That’s it for this week!

PS: my cinnamon vanilla salt is back and available here for a limited time!

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Lynna Burgamy

Update: 2024-12-03