PicoBlog

Some clichés exist because they’re true.

There’s no denying that hanging about in cafés is a big part of Parisian life year-round. But especially in the summer.

In the mornings, I might go to café to drink coffee *alone* and get my thoughts together, or for a business meeting; I’ll go to some cafés to write and some cafés to chitchat with a mate when we need to set the world to rights. I go to some where the food is decent for lunch. (Note: a typical Parisian café is not the same thing as a restaurant, where the food is the point. Not all cafés make good food a priority, and at some of them, you’re honestly better off just eating the free peanuts with your beer. But many do have decent simple French brasserie food on offer—I’ll specify below).

Then of course, come evening, I might —less often than I’d like at the moment with two small children— go to a café for l’apéro …that vague but important catch-all term that technically refers to a drink and a bit of a nibble to whet your appetite before dinner, but can last an entire evening with friends on the outdoor terraces when the air is warm and the days are long.

There are obviously endless cafés at every turn in Paris. From overpriced tourist traps to cheap’n’ cheerful “PMU” betting bars —these can be great fun, if a bit rough around the edges— and everything in between. It’s easy to get caught up in the first category, because they’re often decorated to look more typically French, inviting or even clean, but beware of this fancy disguise! Sometimes the ones that don’t look quite as nice actually boast better ambiance, prices, and, you know, actual locals present. In short, they’re often miles more appealing than the cafés that doth decorate too much, methinks.

That said I’m not specifically bashing Café de Flore here. Goodness knows everyone should make a pilgrimage to this institution at least once for the sheer history, red banquettes and decadent floral decor. Also, it should be said that some of the most Parisian people I know —including older ones, some of whom have barely left Paris all their lives, Woody Allen style, are still obsessed with doing their morning meetings at Flore, despite the encroaching Emilys. They say it brings back memories, and I believe it.

But I thought I’d give you a few other ideas.

Through much trial and error I’ve narrowed down my go-to list below, whilst also attempting to dig up suggestions in a variety of neighbourhoods. I’ll tell you what I like about each. And, at the end as a bonus, I’ll add a shortlist of places you can get an iced oat-milk latte around here… AKA modern, international-style coffee shops. Hint: this is absolutely not the same thing as the classic-style Paris cafés I’m referring to in the main list, the majority of which do not have oat milk, also serve alcohol from noon and will only serve you coffee in one of the following formats:

“Un café” = an espresso

“Un café creme” = a latte, with cow’s milk.

“Un cappuccino” = a cappuccino, with cow’s milk.

“Un café allongé” = an “American” coffee aka a mug full of espresso diluted with hot water.

“Un café noisette” = an espresso with a little bit of whipped cow’s milk on top.

They do usually have every kind of wine imaginable though, it that’s any consolation.

Coffee-wise, if you want something other than the above, please skip down to the bonus “modern” section. But be warned: you will likely be met with queues and a majority population of foreigners at such establishments.

My husband’s ideal coffee stop remains standing at the bar of an old crumbling café, the randomer the better, and downing an espresso shot he can barely taste in one whilst reading the paper or grumbling with his neighbour about the mayor. This followed by a Marlboro light of course. But some French people do seem to be catching on to the takeaway latte trend. It’s a riveting social experiment.

Oh, and one more thing. If you’re in the know, please do leave your favourites in the comment section!

Cheers!

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