Dan Dan Noodles - by Kristina Cho
I’ve been asking myself this question for weeks because when I started developing this dan dan noodle recipe I realized that the definition of one varies a lot! I was researching recipes and asking friends how their family makes them and the answers were all over the place. One thing we can agree on is that this dish originates from the Sichuan province. Knowing that, these noodles should be spicy and there should be some Sichuan peppercorns for the lovely numbing effect and piney/zesty flavor. Pickled mustards greens, such as Sui Mi Ya Cai, is a common ingredient too, adding a pungent saltiness and funk to the meat component.
However, some people are adamant that dan dan noodles never have sesame paste in them, while others have never had it any other way. I’ve had dan dan noodles that are creamy and rich from sesame paste and also versions that leaned more on the brothier side withe less spice and more savory richness from meat. Do I love all versions of dan dan noodles? Absolutely. I will never turn down a bowl. But I wanted a recipe for dan dan noodles that I felt like I could whip up on a weeknight, adjust the ingredients based on what I had on hand, and have it be guaranteed delicious every time.
The Sauce: For these noodles I opted for the sesame paste base because I love the creaminess and how it emulsifies into this beautiful glossy sauce with the meat and pickled cabbage. Sesame paste is also shelf stable and you can always have it in your pantry. The sauce is just sesame paste, soy sauce, chili oil, Chinese black vinegar, and water. Adjust these ratios however you see fit. I honestly like a little more vinegar in the sauce but my husband doesn’t so much so we end up meeting in the middle! If your sauce is too loose, add a little more sesame paste (or any nut butter), and if it is too thick than add a little more water.
The Meat: pork is most traditional but you can really use any ground protein that you like or have on hand. I have used ground turkey and chicken for this recipe and they are just as tasty as the fattier kinds of ground meat. Just be cautious about not over cooking!
Pickled Cabbage: You might we thinking this is completely out of left field but I was craving something bright and tart mixed into these noodles. You’ll often see julienned cucumbers or carrots or simply blanched leaves of bok boy served alongside dan dan noodles for some freshness, but I need a little more tang because the sauce is so savory. It takes 15 minutes to prepare the pickled cabbage, so while it’s sitting you can prepare the rest of the ingredients. Feel free to omit this element if you like or add some pickled daikon or pickled carrots instead.
The seasonings in the meat include a bunch of easily accessible ingredients, but the only one you might not have heard of before or have a hard time sourcing is Olive Vegetable Paste. I’ve been using this for a few years now and love it so much. It’s like a condiment but you can also use it to marinate or add into sauces and stir-fries. It’s a fermented paste of Chinese olives and pickled mustarded greens. It is salty, pungent, with a slight funky. If you don’t have these already in your arsenal, don’t worry! You can omit (hopefully you can pick up a jar on your next shopping trip) and add a touch more salt or hoisin to compensate for the lack of salt.
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(serves 4)
1lb egg or wheat noodles
Quick pickled cabbage:
8 oz Purple Cabbage, thinly shredded
1/3 cup rice vinegar
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp sugar
Sauce:
1/4 cup sesame paste
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp chili oil
1 tbsp Chinese black vinegar
1/4 cup hot water, (you can use the starchy noodle water)
For the Meat:
2 tbsp avocado oil
1 lb ground pork, beef, chicken or turkey
1 tsp ground Sichuan pepper (preferably toasted beforehand)
2 tbsp Hoisin
2 tbsp Shaoxing Wine
1 tbsp Olive Vegetable Paste (optional but delicious)
2 tsp Dark Soy Sauce
2 tsp Five Spice Powder
1/2 tsp coarse salt
1/2 tsp white pepper
Ground sesame seeds, for topping
Thinly sliced green onions, for topping
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook your noodles according to package directions. Save 1/4 cup of starchy water for the sauce. Drain and rinse the noodle under cold water.
In a medium bowl, toss the cabbage with vinegar, salt, and sugar. Allow the cabbage to sit for at least 15 minutes and up to 4 days.
In a small bowl, mix to combine sesame paste, soy, chili oil, and vinegar. While mixing, slowly steam in the starchy noodle water until the sauce is creamy but not too loose, you might not need all of it.
Heat the oil in a large pan over medium high heat. Add the ground meat and break it up with a spatula. Continue to cook until the meat is about half way cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the sichuan peppercorns, hoisin, wine, olive vegetable paste, dark soy, five spice, salt, and white pepper. Stir to incorporate into the meat and continue to cook until the meat is cooked through and crispy, tossing occasionally, 2 to 3 minutes.
Add sauce to the bottom of each bowl and top with a bundle of noodles, a scoop of meat, and some cabbage. Serve with sesame seeds, green onions, and extra chili oil. Mix to coat the noodles in the sauce and incorporate the meat and cabbage.
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