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Ko Lipe changed radically over the past 15 years, perhaps more than any other Thai island. In 2006, this four-square-km island had a total of 23 lodgings overlooking the marvelous beaches and sandy trails. By 2019 that number had jumped to over 100, including several large-scale resorts and inland hotels. Sidecar motorbike taxis clogged newly paved lanes as crowds piled on to Walking Street.

By my first visit in 2011, residents and devoted long-stay travelers seemed to know what was is in store for the boomerang-shaped island they loved. I like to think that I saw some of the last breaths of an older and mellower Ko Lipe during that trip, a moment before mass tourism tightened its grasp.

Some of the “old hands” left the island permanently after selling their bungalows and beach bars. Others stuck around, however, and echoes of the days before mass tourism can still be heard in places. Whenever I visit Ko Lipe nowadays, I always start with a long, slow walk to spots that remind me of what it was like before.

Setting out from the Urak Lawoi-owned Gipsy Resort.

Starting at my favorite place to stay, Gipsy Resort, I stroll down to the south end of Sunrise Beach and wander beyond a few boulders. On the other side lies a hidden stretch of some of the softest and whitest sand that I’ve come across anywhere in Thailand. My bare feet are in rapture. The few folks relaxing on blankets give me funny looks as I aimlessly dig my toes into the powdery grains.

This super-soft sand fronts the upscale Serendipity Resort, but anyone can enjoy it. That’s Ko Usen to the right with Ko Tanga (or Ko Klang) faintly visible to the left.

After skirting back past the rocks and a swing that now appears on the Travelfish homepage, I cut through a resort (shh, don’t tell) and come out at the southern end of the lane behind Sunrise Beach. Near its end I find a trail that cuts over a wooded hill and affords a view to Ko Adang and neighboring isles.

This rather hazy vista shot from the hill between Sunrise and Pattaya beaches shows little Ko Kra with Ko Adang’s Laem Son Beach on the left and Ko Bitsi (or Ko Lek) in the background.

The trail deposits me behind the large-scale Bundhaya Resort near the eastern end of Pattaya Beach. I stride up this gorgeous, bustling expanse of white sand, keeping my feet in the crystalline water when I don’t have to detour around unloading speedboats. About halfway up the beach, I grab a seat in the ultra-mellow Cafe Lipe for an iced coffee and a break from the heavy sun.

Taking a time out near the center of Pattaya (or Daya) Beach.

Refreshed after a chat with the Swiss and Thai owners, I continue to the western corner of Pattaya Beach and take a look at two of the island’s last Urak Lawoi-owned budget resorts: Daya and Pattaya Song. Where the sand ends, I step on to a driftwood walkway balanced above the boulders. Gazing back east as a snorkeler silently swims down below, I’m treated to a view of this busy bay.

Gazing at Pattaya Beach with Daya Resort’s old restaurant pavilion to the left.

The walkway ends at a hillside dotted with bungalows that belong to Sanom Beach Resort, a secluded spot owned by native islanders who are involved in The Urak Lawoi Project. After photographing a petite beach enjoyed primarily by guests of the resort, I stroll back down the stilted walkway to Pattaya Beach.

Sanom Beach has a southwestern view into the empty Andaman Sea.

A lane that cuts inland beside the enormous Sita Resort takes me uphill on a 10-minute walk straight across to the quieter northern side of Ko Lipe. There I hang a left and jog up and down several hills on the only lane that shoots into the island’s mostly undeveloped western tail. It feels good to get a break from the swimsuit-clad tourists as I look for wildflowers in greenery that hangs over the lane.

An Indian rhododendron on the lane through Ko Lipe’s western peninsula. Known in Thai as dok aen-ah, this plant can be used to ease itching and reduce bleeding.

Soon I spot a trail on the left that shoots downhill to one of Ko Lipe’s only undeveloped stretches of sand: Hat Galah (or Kra Beach) on the southwest coast. I encounter only a few other travelers enjoying a lounge on this short stretch of sand. “I’ve been here all day,” a Belgian tells me while pointing at his empty cooler.

A glimpse of undeveloped Galah Beach in the undeveloped west of Ko Lipe.

The concrete lane turns to sand at its far western end, home to some of the few old-growth trees left on Ko Lipe. On more than one occasion I’ve searched for a trail down to the rocky shore, getting myself tangled up in a thicket full of red ants at one point. Alas, there is no trail down to the sea, but I still enjoy hiking all the way out here to look for birdlife in a part of the island where few people go.

Nearing the end of Ko Lipe’s western tail and there’s not a resort in sight.

On the way back I hop off the northern side of the lane and lumber around a partially clear area of sandy soil. A few boulders emerge from the scraggly flora, and I climb the tallest one for a vista of sailboats dotting the sea between Ko Lipe and the larger islands of Ko Rawi and Ko Adang. Close to the seashore along the northern coast, I discover the overgrown steps of a long abandoned house.

A friend soaks in the view from atop one of the forest boulders during my 2013 visit to Ko Lipe.

By now it’s late afternoon and the receding tide makes it possible to walk back east with the forest to my right and coral-filled water on my left. Sizable reefs coupled with a lack of boats and few people make this one of the better snorkeling areas around Ko Lipe. The first people I’ve seen for at least an hour — a barely clothed Italian couple — give me a wave before diving in with their snorkels.

With Ko Adang looming in the background, I stopped for a glimpse of some of Ko Lipe’s undeveloped northwestern sand after finding my way down from the woods.

After a swim of my own, I pull myself up to the wide wooden decks at Pitiusas, a small Spanish-run resort that stands as the westernmost place to stay on Ko Lipe. Offering seclusion and an intimate scene, it’s one of a few hillside lodgings built into a set of sandy coves on the northern coast of the island’s western tail.

Chilling at Pitiusas with a western view of Ko Tong and its islets. This is a terrific sunset spot.

With the sun hanging low over Ko Rawi, I climb back up to the main lane and head into the interior to visit Ko Lipe’s only Buddhist temple. Dotted with shrines dedicated to the hermit Ruesi and various Hindu gods, this subdued wat preserved many trees when development ate into much of the island.

A statue of Brahma fronts Ko Lipe’s only Buddhist temple, the calming Wat Han Talay.

I take my inner calm north to Sunset Beach, home to a few resorts and Princess Sirindhorn’s summer cottage near the eastern end. The royal presence partly explains why authorities took firmer control of this area in recent years, ordering the long-running Porn’s Bungalows to be dismantled in 2015. Concrete foundations and the odd toilet once used by backpackers still sit near the sand.

Princess Sirindhorn’s cottage stands on a hill between Sunset Beach and a smaller stretch of sand to the east. This area also hosts a national park station, where camping is permissible.

Hanging around for sunset, I watch the beach dogs play as longtail boat drivers slide their bows into the sand and toss out their anchors for the night. A beach shack sells fresh coconuts and cold beer for the sundowner crowd.

A dog naps at dusk on Sunset Beach.

In the twilight, I stand up on rubbery legs for the home stretch of my six km walk around Ko Lipe. On the way I settle into Nee Papaya for barbecued squid and som tam, sharing my island discoveries with some Dutch travelers seated beside me. Offering a few tips of their own, they suggest that I kayak to a tiny beach, Hat Patai Mira, hidden in the far south of the island. “Bring a snorkel,” they advise.

The moon rises above Ko Talak (right) and Ko Tanga in the distance, as seen from Sunrise Beach.

While kayaking sounds good, I think I’ll rest on the northern stretch of Sunrise Beach the next morning. Overlooking the two-km channel between Ko Lipe and Ko Adang, its wide wing of white sand is simply magnificent. 🌴

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