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Get An Onigiri Mold, It's So Worth It

I'm not a big fan of kitchen tools that only do one thing. Garlic press? No, thank you. Those plastic things with wires running across them that claim to be for cutting eggs? Absolutely not. There is only room for one unitasker in my kitchen, the onigiri mold.

What is Onigiri?

Onigiri is a Japanese short-grain rice ball formed into shapes. They can be plain, have mixins, or have a pocket of filling in the center. They're usually wrapped in nori (dried seaweed). It's made to be compact, portable, and versatile.

The oldest onigiri found in Japan was from 2000 years ago. It was fossilized but still had finger marks indented into it. Before chopsticks became widespread, rice was formed into small balls for easy transport from plate to face. It has now evolved into the quintessential portable Japanese snack. They can be found everywhere, from convenience stores to restaurants.

How to Make Onigiri

Onigiri is something I make when I have a bunch of flavorful leftovers that I don't know what to do with. I've filled them with everything from smashed cucumbers and chili crisp to sesame seeds and seared tofu. I always have Japanese short-grain rice around, and with my wooden onigiri mold it is a snap to make.

First, the rice:

1 cup Japanese short-grain rice

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt (optional)

1 cup water

  • Put the rice in a medium bowl and place it under running cold water. Using your hands, swish the rice and keep draining and refilling the water until it runs almost clear, about 3-4 times. Fill the bowl with cold water and let soak for 20 minutes.

  • Drain the rice and place in a fine-meshed strainer over the bowl to further draw out any excess moisture, about 5 minutes.

  • Place the rice in a medium pot with a tight-fitting lid and add the salt and cup of water, stir to combine, and place over medium-high heat. When the water starts to boil, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 18 minutes.

  • Turn off the heat, fluff the rice with a fork, and put the lid back on. Let rest for 20 minutes.

  • Filling options:

    • Bonito flakes and soy: Place a handful of bonito flakes in a bowl and moisten with enough soy to make a dense, compact, and umami forward mixture.

    • Spicy tuna/salmon: Finely chop the fish and combine with mayonnaise, finely chopped scallions, and your favorite hot sauce. Add finely chopped fresh Thai chilies for more heat.

    • Avocado and toasted peanuts: Finely chop and toast the peanuts and season with togarashi, mix with cubed avocado and gently toss to combine.

    • Stewed and finely chopped mushroom: Stew mushrooms in dashi until tender, then finely chop and mix with sesame oil, sesame seeds, and finely chopped scallion.

    • Braised meat: Finely chop any leftover braised meat and season with soy, finely chopped scallion, and garlic.

    • Sauteed eggplant and scallion: Finely dice eggplant and scallion and saute until soft and golden brown. Finish with miso and butter.

    How to form onigiri:

  • If using a wooden mold, soak in warm water for at least 10 minutes to prevent sticking.

  • Fill the molds with rice and make a little pocket in the center with your finger (if adding a filling). Make sure the filling isn't too wet, or it will seep into the rice. Do not use more than one tablespoon of filling per onigiri.

  • Put more rice on top to seal and press down firmly until the rice is compact and level with the top of the mold.

  • Gently push out the onigiri.

  • Wrap one side with a cut rectangle of nori (if using).

  • Serve immediately or store in the fridge for 2 days. If refrigerating, temper before eating.

  • I'll dip my onigiri in kewpie, soy or shichimi togarashi, OR take it to the next level by searing it in a nonstick skillet or well-seasoned cast-iron pan. The outside will become crackly and crispy, while the inside gets hot and chewy. It works even better with onigiri that has been refrigerated and is faster than waiting for it to temper.

    What are your favorite onigiri fillings?

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    Almeda Bohannan

    Update: 2024-12-03