How the "Bouillon" Restaurant Went From Posh to "Populaire" (& The Best in Paris)
One of my earliest experiences of eating out somewhere relatively “notable” in Paris left me surprised and, admittedly, a bit confused. It was at Bouillon Chartier, a Belle-Epoque/turn-of-the-20thC restaurant that displayed all the period’s characteristic grandeur: a dining room so enormous and high-ceilinged that you could probably use it as a makeshift theatre or concert hall? Check. Painstaking mahogany carvings, brass panelling, mirrored walls that magnify the enormity of the space? Check.
But there was, curiously enough, no starchiness or fuss accompanying the theatrical backdrop: it was loud, with communal tables that violate any possibility of an intimate conversation— and above all, it was remarkably cheap. Servers in formal black and white uniforms scrawled our menu choices— at the time (in around 2003) only around 5 or 6 Euros for main courses, maybe 2 or 3 for starters— directly on paper tablecloths, then scurried away with little ceremony, bringing back our dishes and plunking them down within minutes.
In short, the setting seemed curiously at odds with the cheap (maybe not so cheerful) service. And from that time on, I was curious to know why.
This week, our spirited Contributor Rachel Naismith brings you an in-depth look at the origins of the French “bouillon”— and how it went from posh to populaire, or working-class.
It begins in the late 18th century, when formal dining was still the province of the wealthy, and patrons of nascent “broth kitchens” might be compared to the followers of Gwyneth Paltrow’s current-day empire: obsessed with “clean eating”, yet holding a patently elitist approach to food.
By the 19th century, though, restaurants had become more accessible to the working classes, and the bouillon transformed into a place for informal, healthy and inexpensive hot meals for everyday Parisians. That didn’t keep designers of the time from creating dining rooms that reflected the fashionable, elaborate codes of Art Deco and Art Nouveau, though. See more on the history of the bouillon, and for suggestions on some of the best still open in Paris, here.
And for our full review of the Bouillon Chartier’s flagship restaurant in the Grands Boulevards area of Paris, see it here, see it now.
Pivoting away from food history for now, April is upon us— and with it both a huge influx of visitors to the capital and a flurry of worthwhile events, shows, things to do. Check out our full and updated guide to visiting Paris in April for suggestions on what to see and do this month, from art fairs to frolics in green spaces, exhibits and walks.
On a related note, this is probably an ideal time of year for getting out of the city a bit. By train, you can easily reach places like the medieval town of Provins, only an hour and a half train-ride from Paris to the southeast, at the border of Champagne. There’s the Palace of Versailles and its endless gardens and royal follies, of course— but have you considered visiting lesser-known palaces such as the Chateau Vaux-le-Vicompte, or Fontainebleau? Both are also easy day trips from Paris.
Before heading out on an excursion, though, do watch out for frequent rainy forecasts at this time of year. Traipsing through soggy formal gardens and fields in chilly rain may sound romantic in theory, but believe me, it’s not. At least you can usually find a good salon de thé/tearoom somewhere on the premises, or in an adjoining village.
Next, we’ve got several recent, exclusive posts for paid newsletter subscribers this month.
We start with a look at a fascinating project to restore the damaged acoustics at Paris’ Notre-Dame Cathedral, where the fire of 2019 reportedly led to a significant loss in the Gothic cathedral’s ability to carry sound in that resounding, almost mystical way it’s famed for.
In this issue, we also talk about why the fight to keep American producers from making “Gruyère” cheese might be a lost cause, and explore an interesting refitting (and rebranding?) of the Picasso Museum in Paris.
Next, the city of Paris is gearing up for the 2024 Summer Olympics by attempting to clean up the waters of the Seine, ostensibly making them safe for swimming again. It’s a laudable goal, to be sure— especially since native fish populations such as carp and catfish have been returning thanks to fewer toxins— but can it stick?
Is the Olympics an opportunity to really improve certain aspects of the Parisian environment, or will the fervor pass once the flame has been snuffed out?
Finally, two separate paid posts address the chaos (and hype) that have surrounded the ongoing pension strikes in Paris this year. In this post, I explain that a large part of the media coverage around the city “burning” amounts to clickbait, give my take on why so many are striking in France, advice on whether to delay or cancel your trip, and direct you to updated info on safety in the capital.
Things take a more whimsical turn with my last paid post of the month, which explores how street artist Bisk has made garbage piling up on the streets of Paris amid sanitation strikes into gently monstrous faces— breaking up some of the reigning irritation and angst, and giving humorous new relevance to the term “found objects”.
The post also details how to compete for the chance to purchase tickets for Olympics competitions and ceremonies in Paris next year, and ends with details around two exhibits on the American-Haitian and Puerto Rican artist Jean-Michel Basquiat in the capital this spring.
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That’s a wrap for today. I hope you’re enjoying the early hints of spring, and gearing up for a few adventures, whether near or remote. As always, I appreciate your continued support and readership, and encourage you to visit the Paris Unlocked website to dig into our archive of in-depth stories, features and France-related travel tips. Scroll down to see just a few I suggest this month.
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