PicoBlog

Radishes are by far my favorite vegetable. I love their subtle burn, crisp and watery crunch, and two-for-one deal of the peppery tops pared with the spicy roots. I know you can find them in stores year-round, but nothing compares to the fiery summer radishes from the farmer's market. So when it starts to get chilly, and we enter the winter squash and carrots season, I turn to Hakurei turnips for that same fresh radish kick.

The Hakurei, AKA Tokyo, turnip is a member of the brassica family (along with broccoli, cabbage, collards, mustards, and cauliflower). This relatively new variety was developed in Japan in the 1950s when Japan was suffering from severe food shortages due to World War 2. Hakurei turnips quickly rose in popularity because of their delicate flavor and crunchy texture.

Unlike other turnips, Hakurei turnips do not need to be cooked. They share the same crunch as a radish, with a subtly sweet flavor when you eat them raw. They turn into flavor sponges when cooked, soaking in all the goodness of whatever liquid they're simmered or braised in. They are almost always sold with their tender greens, which are better than radish tops, that are often tough or stringy. Hakurei tops cook down like mature watercress, crunchy when raw but quickly wilting with a touch of heat. Turnips are filled to the brim with vitamin C, and the greens are rich in vitamins A, C, and K, as well as folate and calcium.

If you have an intense hatred of turnips and find them unpleasantly bitter, it could be because you have a genetically higher sensitivity to cyanoglucosides. It's similar to people with a genetic aversion to cilantro.

Storage

I like to separate the greens from the turnips as soon as possible, so they don't continue to pull moisture from the roots during storage. If I keep the turnip bulbs in a produce cloth bag in the coldest area of my refrigerator, they are suitable for 2 weeks. I immediately wash, dry, and wrap the greens in a kitchen towel. They need to be cooked within 3 days, before the greens get slimy and oxidized, so they're at peak nutrition and flavor.

How to use it

Make a quick slaw/salad: Shave the roots super thin on a mandoline, so they are super thin. Toss them with vinegar or citrus and salt or soy sauce for an instant pickled vibe.

Simply sautee the greens: Steam or sweat the greens with thinly sliced garlic until they just wilt, then season them with salt, sesame oil, and sesame seeds.

Give them the French treatment: I know what you're thinking. Can I treat these like a radish and slather on room temperature butter? Oh boy, you can! This combo only enhances the buttery notes already present in the turnip.

Turn them into butter sponges: Cut the turnips in half, sear the cut side in oil, then add enough water or broth to come half way up their sides. Add a few generous pats of butter and gently simmer until they've soaked in the buttery liquid but still have a little crunch. Finish with flaky salt and have alongside eggs, steak, or fish.

Char hard: Lightly coat the turnips in oil, then quickly char with the intense dry heat under a broiler, on the grill, or in a smoking hot cast iron skillet. Like other brassicas, they can handle a lot of blackening, growing sweet instead of bitter.

There really is no wrong with how you use these delicate little wonders. Just don't overcook them—they can get a little farty. So if you're also missing farmer's market radishes, turn to the Hakurei turnip.

See ya!

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