More From My Oregon Sojourn Dusky Goose
I’ve posted periodically about my visit to the Willamette Valley last month. My purpose in putting the trip together was principally to spend time with winemakers, see family-owned boutiques first hand, and fulfill covid-delayed visits to old vine vineyards. At the end of the last day, and at the last minute, I squeezed in a stop at Dusky Goose.
I have tasted and reviews their wines for a number of vintages, and was impressed with the quality. Also intrigued by their late release program, and of course noted that famed winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash, now retired from her own winery, was making the Dusky Goose wines.
I was greeted by Hans Van Dale, who became the on-site winemaker ahead of the 2021 vintage. Penner-Ash still consults. Given that the winery tends to hold back vintages prior to release, only a couple of his wines are just now coming out.
You may not realize that holding wines back is quite expensive, and few wineries are able to do it (intentionally - not because sales are slow!). The inventory sits there while subsequent vintages pile up, meaning extra storage costs, inventory management costs, and lack of income for the winery. For consumers however the gains are important – wines are more mellow, better integrated and overall more complex aromatically when they have a few extra years of bottle age. They have been properly cellared as opposed to stumbling upon an older vintage on a retail shelf that’s been shipped and schlepped and shaken and shocked who knows how many times.
Visitors to the tasting room can experience the power and beauty of older vintages by signing up for an ‘Estate Tasting.’ The $40 fee seems like a bargain (and is waived with a two-bottle purchase) when you consider the wines. My flight began with estate-grown Pinots from 2016 and 2017, then a single vineyard 2017 Fennwood Pinot and finally another estate bottle from 2014. All of these wines (and more) are still for sale.
You can reserve a tasting date here or take a chance and just drop in.
I returned home with a selection of new and future releases. Here are my notes.
Dusky Goose 2019 Chardonnay
Sourced from a single clone (Dijon 548) and single vineyard (Fennwood) this is one of the last vintages made by Lynn Penner-Ash who now continues as a consulting winemaker for Dusky Goose. As in previous years it's well-made and detailed with refreshing acids and a lemony kick of citrus. The core fruit is tilted toward green berries, apples and melon. About one quarter was aged in new French oak. This is the just-released current vintage. 252 cases; 13.5%; $60 (Yamhill-Carlton) 92/100
Rambeaux 2022 Pinot Noir Rosé
Part of the Dusky Goose portfolio, the lower-priced Rambeaux wines don't disappoint. This lush rosé grabs the palate with flavors of satsuma oranges, pink grapefruit and fresh strawberries. There's a spicy top note, juicy acids and a lingering finish that stays clean and crisp. 160 cases; 13.5%; $35 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Rambeaux 2021 Pinot Noir
Dusky Goose's lower-priced Rambeaux are a fine introduction to the portfolio, and this is the first vintage for new winemaker Hans Van Dale, working alongside consulting winemaker Lynn Penner-Ash. It's an elegant, forward, aromatic wine with instant appeal. The scents of Pinot are pure and clear, leading into flavors of ripe berries and plums. Aging in 20% new barrels adds nice touches of toast and tobacco, and the wine glides across the palate as if giving you a come hither wink that invites the next sip. In short, an infatuating wine ready for immediate enjoyment. 530 cases; 14%; $40 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Dusky Goose 2018 Pinot Noir
Although this is a 2018 it has just been released. The extra bottle age brings out the nuanced details – wildflowers and pastry fruit, dark chocolate and a streak of cold coffee. There's a firm spine with a metallic edge, and the longer you spend with the finish the more it delivers, cascading into a firm, dark, espresso grounded tail. 1347 cases; 14.8%; $75 (Dundee Hills) 94/100
Dusky Goose 2019 Pinot Noir
This is a preview – the actual release date is a year away. For most wineries it would be more than ready. In fact, the reddish sunset hues and smooth mouthfeel suggest a wine moving gently along the aging curve. It's light and delicate, with a Burgundian nod to herbal, savory flavors. Smooth as silk, drinking beautifully. 421 cases; 13.5%; $75 (Dundee Hills) 93/100
Dusky Goose 2019 Rambouillet Vineyard Pinot Noir
This is the estate vineyard, and the wine was made by Lynn Penner-Ash, now consulting to new (2021) winemaker Hans Van Dale. Set for a fall release, all the Dusky Goose Pinots are held back long enough to reward those who may not have a cellar, and those who (like me) enjoy their Oregon Pinot Noir with a bit of bottle age. From the sunset hue to the smooth entry and the seamless palate, this wine is in excellent condition for near-term drinking. Three clones - roughly half Pommard - are in the mix, and the barrel aging included two thirds new and one-year French oak. Black fruits, a wash of sandalwood and a long finish are among the strengths of this excellent wine. 270 cases; 13.6%; $100 (Dundee Hills) 94/100
Previously reviewed but still available wines:
Dusky Goose 2017 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir – the cherry fruit is firm and compact with a spine of steel. Subtle details of herb and leaf adorn the flavor edges, and if you dive in there's a streak of cola through the finish. It's a marvelous wine from one of Oregon's most talented winemakers. A past Wine of the Week selection. 1268 cases; 14.2%; $75 (Dundee Hills) 93/100
Dusky Goose 2018 Rambouillet Vineyard Pinot Noir – Principally Pommard clone, which puts the pedal to the metal as far as fruit is concerned, this new release from the estate vineyard is a rich and balanced wine with delicious blackberry, black cherry fruit, sandalwood highlights and smooth tannins. Just now being released, it benefits from the extra bottle age which is an added and rarely noted asset. 270 cases; 14.8%; $100 (Dundee Hills) 94/100
ncG1vNJzZmiokaq5qL7EoKytrF6owqO%2F05qapGaTpLpwvI6mpqudXZu%2FsLmMprBmp6KatLC6jKymo6elp7tusNSsorI%3D