PicoBlog

What I’m reading: a really beautiful book called Close to Home, by Michael Magee. It’s about a young man growing up in West Belfast, and it tackles some fairly big issues in an articulate, poignant way. Read it!

(Also bonus: this Vittles piece about the Press Up restaurant group in Dublin)

What I’m listening to: like, it seems, the rest of the world - a lot of Fred again. I think I’m pining for music festivals

What I’m eating: a lot of excellent food in Mérida, Mexico. If you’re planning to visit, I recommend you check out Pancho Maiz, Salon Gallos and Soco.

I had an unexplained pin on my Google Maps when I got to Valladolid, Yucatán last week. Somebody must have recommended this bakery to me a while ago, and I’m very grateful that they did - thank you, whoever you are. Anyway, I arrived at the bus station just after lunchtime, so I decided to head straight for Ancestra - conveniently located a 3-minute walk from my hostel. As I walked, the heavens opened and I was utterly drenched by the time I arrived.

I traipsed into the bakery (leaving my soggy bags at the door), greeted by the smell of roasted coffee, fresh bread and pastries. Having spent the last several months in countries where corn is king (and good quality butter is scarce), this smell put a big fat smile on my face. I got a loaf of bread (campesino) and a pastry (pain au choc) and made tracks for my hostel.

I ended up going back the next day, when the owners, Mateo and Juan Carlos invited me in for a tour, and to tell me about a new seed they’re incorporating into their bread. Despite being a bit of a self-professed grain nerd, I had never heard of Ramón. I was lucky enough to attend the UK Grain Lab last year with Karen from the Happy Tummy Co., and I am fascinated by the health and environmental benefits of cultivating and baking with alternative grains - so this was right up my street. During my time working at the Happy Tummy Co. in Westport, we used a variety of grains, including spelt and emmer (grown by Oak Forest Mills), and teff, grown in Ethiopia and produced by Lovegrass. Ramón actually reminds me a bit of teff in its nutritional profile, and in the fact that cultivation is limited to a specific geographical area (the ancient Mayan territory in the case of Ramón, and Ethiopia and parts of Eritrea in the case of teff). It’s so worthwhile seeking out bakers who champion native and heritage grains; as well as supporting local farmers and communities, these grains, especially when combined with sourdough cultures, are incredibly nutritionally dense, not to mention much more interesting flavour-wise.

Ramón (or Brosimum alicastrum) is a neotropical canopy tree - one of the tallest in the tropical rainforest. It grows in what was once the Mayan empire, covering the east and south of Mexico, Guatemala and Belize. The Mayans used to call Ramón the “corn tree”, and it was consumed in a similar way: raw, boiled or roasted and ground into flour. It was also blended with corn to provide food security between harvests. Since the fall of the Mayan empire, the use of this superfood has largely been lost, and Ramón trees are more commonly used for timber and to feed livestock. For many years, Ramón seeds were wasted in huge quantities: once ripe, the seeds fall from the trees (often with the help of a vigorous shake), and need to be dried within 2 days, or they ferment and cannot be used.

Ramón seeds are high in fibre, calcium, potassium, folate, iron, zinc, protein, and vitamins A, B, C, and E (Source: Rainforest Alliance). They also provide tryptophan, the chemical responsible for generating serotonin and melatonin - so should contribute to improved sleep, energy levels and mood. They have high levels of antioxidants, and are allergen free (no gluten or treenuts).

Ramón seeds can be eaten raw, but are usually roasted and ground. Once roasted, they develop a malty, sweet flavour not unlike cocoa or coffee. The ground seeds can be used in baking (at Ancestra, they have developed a sourdough with 50% native wheat and 50% ramón), or are commonly used as a hot drink, like horchata or a caffeine-free coffee alternative. The leaves can also be dried and used for tea.

Although it is native to tropical rainforests, Ramón is incredibly resilient to drought, making it a highly sustainable crop. Once dried, it can be stored for up to 5 years, providing food security to local communities. Ramón trees grow extensively in the Yucatán peninsula and in Guatemala, but are often neglected, as the popularity of the seed has diminished significantly. Renewed interest in the seed would revive local communities and boost rural economies.

Although Ramón cannot be cultivated outside the specific geographical region of the ancient Mayan civilisation, a renewed interest in this superfood means that it is currently exported to much of the Western world. Try your local health food or organic shop, or you may be able to find a supplier online. However, I also recommend that you seek out superfood grains and seeds that are native to your local area. Companies like Biasol, Hodmedod’s, Oak Forest Mills and Wildfarmed are doing incredible work in producing high-quality grain while supporting local farmers and communities.

My mum regularly makes a version of this loaf, so it is usually in the bread bin whenever I go home - perfect for breakfast with a thick layer of butter and homemade marmalade. It’s a typical soda bread, leavened with bread soda (bicarb), and enriched with buttermilk and egg. I’ve experimented with a lot of different grains for this type of loaf, and it seems to be adaptable to most - so it’s the perfect vehicle for alternative flour. After listening to this podcast with Tim Spector, it seems even more important to incorporate as many different grains, nuts and seeds in my diet - you can include as many as 6 or 7 different types in this loaf, making it the perfect bread to boost gut diversity and get a whole range of vitamins and minerals with just one slice.

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