The Endurance of Cabbage Pasta
This week’s recipe means a lot to me but it is not one I can claim as my own. My brother landed on it when the fridge was close-to-empty one day about 12 years ago. Some of you will know it already, but hopefully it is new to a lot of you. I’m excited for you to cook it for the first time!! This is a pasta with very little reference to Italy because sometimes that's what you want. I’m not scared. Further down, I’ve got the recipe for the Currytini cocktail from Babur, my favourite North Indian restaurant (more on that). Happy 38th Birthday to them.
I've made Cabbage Pasta hundreds of times since my brother first cooked it for me, because I always have a white cabbage, onions, Cheddar cheese and Sambal Oelek or Sriracha in my fridge. And I am always in the mood for it. I have made some additions since back in the day, of paprika, coriander and (sometimes) a squeeze of lemon.
The first time I remember cooking this meal was when I was at Sheffield University, where I first discovered that cooking made me feel both alive and at home. Since then I have cooked it in multiple countries, for multiple friends. I've cooked it in a giant pan for 30 people (‘on lunch’ working at Neal’s Yard Dairy). I've cooked it solo. It never disappoints.
The joy of Cabbage Pasta is the slightly charred, savouriness of the cabbage and onions and how that works with the heat and acidity of the Sambal or Sriracha. The genius of Cabbage Pasta is the way the mild milkiness of the cheese cools everything right back down. Italian cheese is just wrong here. Only Cheddar or Lancashire will do.
The other joy is that it takes about 15-20 minutes to make, just enough time for the cooking to relax you into your evening but not too much time when you are hungry. I love to layer the coriander on before the cheese because I like how it stops the cheese from melting. I love the texture of thickly grated cheddar, and it’s important to me that that stays in tact. If you prefer yours melted, you could layer it the other way.
This recipe is simple enough to memorise basically the first time you make it, which I think is another key to its endurance among my family and friends.
I hope you'll make it and forever have a white cabbage in your fridge from now on. This is the budget dinner you didn't know you needed.
Cabbage Pasta
Or halve the quantities for 1 person, it's a great dining solo meal.
1 tbsp oil (use what you have, sunflower, veg or olive)
60g butter
1 and 1/2 medium onions, sliced into rings and then halved
1/2 small white cabbage, sliced into rings and then halved
1 large clove garlic (optional), finely chopped
1 tsp smoked paprika
75ml Sambal Oelek / Sriracha (or less to taste)
250g your favourite pasta (I like rigatoni, conchiglie or spaghetti with this)
2 handfuls grated Cheddar cheese (on a large grater)
Small handful coriander, stalks included
A squeeze of lemon juice (optional)
In a frying pan or heavy bottomed pan, add half of the butter and the oil, followed by the onion and a pinch of salt. After 3 minutes, add the sliced cabbage and stir well so everything is coated in oil. Add your tsp of paprika and some black pepper now. Fry, on a medium heat, for 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally. You want the onion to be completely soft and the cabbage to be largely soft but still with a little bite in places.
Finely slice your coriander stalks and add them to the pan now. Meanwhile, put your pasta on to boil in salted water. After about 6-7 minutes of the onion and cabbage cooking, add half of your Sambal or Sriracha and the garlic to the cabbage, and stir well. Keep cooking on a medium heat, some bits of onion and cabbage should brown and begin to blacken in places.
When your pasta has finished cooking, use a slotted spoon to add it straight into the cabbage pan along with the other 30g of the butter, it’s fine if a splash of pasta water comes with the pasta. Add the rest of the Sambal or Sriracha and season really well with lots of black pepper and a little salt. Stir really well so everything is fully-coated, and looks glossy and orange. Add a squeeze of lemon now, if you like.
Finish by garnishing with coriander leaves, and then the cheddar cheese and serve. Add an extra drizzle of Sriracha at the table if you like. Enjoy happily ever after!
Tips
I cut the cabbage just under 1cm thick, but I like to have some thinner slices of cabbage and some thicker, as this results in different levels of charring and different textures. You can watch me making it here.
If you don’t have Sambal Oelek or Sriracha you can still make a version of this dish with lots of fresh red chilli, more garlic and a bit more paprika. You’ll definitely need the lemon juice at the end for acidity in this case.
Babur Restaurant are celebrating their 38th Birthday and in honour of their many years serving outstanding curry to the people of South East London I’m sharing their recipe for a Currytini Cocktail with you. Why? Because it’s so delicious!
Babur’s Currytini Cockail
50ml Bombay Sapphire (or your favourite gin)
12.5ml Cinzano Bianco (or your favourite white vermouth)
50ml lime cordial
One sprig of fresh curry leaves
1 and a half green chillies
Take a cocktail shaker or Boston glass and add the half piece of chilli. Muddle with the back of a wooden spoon or muddler. Add the fresh curry leaf and muddle well again.
Fill your shaker/glass with ice cubes. Add the gin, lime cordial and vermouth. Shake well, taste and double strain into your martini glass.
Cut a whole green chilli in two then insert a curry leaf inside it and garnish the drink with it.
Babur’s Tips
Muddle the curry leaf well so it gives the drink colour and flavour.
Check the spice heat of the chilli before using it in the drink.
Double straining is optional, but it gives a clean cocktail.
See you next time!
ncG1vNJzZmivmJbBtMDHmquyp6WnsqS7zqSgp5%2BknbKietKumayskZi4b6%2FOpmapZ6Sdsm6xzZ2sq5memLJuu8Vmmpqakpa0pnnPmqqtmQ%3D%3D