The Haybox Experiment - by Sam Bilton
‘Any stout wooden box or a packing case with a lid’ can be used as a hay box. This was the advice provided by Ambrose Heath in 1961 in his book Haybox Cookery. In the twenty-first century, where cardboard and plastic loom large, how many of us have such things lying around? This is where a bit of lateral thinking came into play when I embarked on my experiment leading me to regard my coffee table as a suitable candidate.
The coffee table in question is actually an old wooden chest. It measures 69 cm in length by 46 cm wide and 39.5 cm high and is conveniently lined with a thin sheet of metal. This is important as most instructions on how to build a haybox tell you to line the box first to ensure minimal heat can escape. It's quite weighty and cumbersome but two of us are able to move it to the kitchen. You need a fairly large box in order to ensure you can pack it with sufficient insulation for the process to work effectively. Hay is not an item I have ever had cause to buy in the past but fortunately, living in Sussex, there are plenty of "country stores" selling Barbour wellies, bedding materials and fodder for a variety of pets from guinea pigs to horses and anything in between. I was instructed to drive to the rear of the store where the bale duly appeared speared to the end of a forklift. Both I and the lad driving the truck cast a doubtful glance towards the small boot of my car. Neither of us were convinced that the bale would fit. However, after much pushing and shoving, the bale was eventually squashed into the place, and I headed home to begin construction.
The first thing I noticed was that there was a surprising amount of hay in a compact bale particularly given that it only cost £7.25. Once you've prize a few handfuls from the mass, the uniform block quickly descends into a chaotic conglomeration of strands, not a similar to Boris Johnson's barnet. Secondly, is the scent. Hay has a wonderful mellow aroma like freshly mown grass tempered with a generous splash of cream to tone down its sharpness. Surrounded by the sweet smell of hay, the box filling was swiftly, if untidily, accomplished (you can see a short reel on Instagram of me doing this). The kitchen looked more like a stable than food prep area when I'd finished, but with the box complete including two indentations for pans I was ready to start cooking. As the recipes below indicate the initial cooking required was minimal. Once the saucepans were safely tucked away in their nests the gentle cooking process continued without any further interference from myself and no telltale aromas emitted from the former coffee table
The following morning, the porridge was disappointingly stone cold and claggy. It demanded additional water and heat to be revived. Once administered, it was rescued and we enjoyed a thoroughly decent breakfast. Having cleaned the oatmeal pan for reuse, the stew and veg were prepared and left for most of the day. Unlike a slow cooker no further energy was required but the end product was just as well cooked. Both meat and veg were beautifully tender although they needed a quick blast on the hob prior to serving for my taste (the stew certainly could have been eaten straight from the box after five hours though, if you don’t mind your food not being piping hot).
This mode of cooking clearly works, but it has its limitations. A haybox can't roast or bake and then of course there is the initial challenge finding a suitable receptacle to begin with. However, it is easy to see how commercial versions like the Wonder Bag could be useful if you can afford the initial investment.
I prepared the porridge at night just before I go to bed. The banana adds a natural sweetness but you could replace this with a pinch of salt if you prefer.
Ingredients (Serves 2)
300ml milk plus extra if desired
300ml water
80g medium oatmeal
1 ripe banana, sliced
Fresh berries, chopped nuts and honey or syrup to serve (optional)
Method
Bring the milk and water to the boil in the saucepan that fits into your haybox, stirring constantly to prevent lumps from forming.
Stir in the sliced banana then bring to the boil. As soon as the mixture comes to the boil place in the haybox and leave overnight.
The following morning you may need to reheat the oatmeal on the hob. Depending on what consistency you prefer for your porridge you may need to add some more milk or water.
Serve hot just as it comes or topped with fresh berries, chopped nuts and honey or syrup.
Adapted from Ambrose Heath’s Haybox Cookery (1961)
Ingredients (Serves 4)
2 tbsp olive oil plus extra if needed
65g smoked pancetta pieces or smoked streaky bacon cut into small pieces
700g stewing beef, cubed
2 tbsp plain flour seasoned with salt and pepper
150ml white wine
50g dry black olives (unpitted)
200g chopped tomatoes (fresh or tinned)
2 cloves garlic, crushed
Bouquet garni - 1 bayleaf, 2 sprigs rosemary, 2 sprigs basil and 2 sprigs parsley OR 1 tsp dried mixed herbs
150ml beef stock or water
Method
Heat the oil over a medium to high heat in the casserole you intend to put in the haybox. Brown the pancetta or bacon pieces then remove with a slotted spoon and drain on absorbent kitchen paper.
While the pancetta or bacon is cooking toss the stewing beef in the seasoned flour. Brown a handful of the flour coated meat then remove from the oil. Continue browning handfuls of meat adding more oil if necessary.
Once all the meat has been browned add the wine to deglaze the casserole, scraping up and residue on the base of the pan. Add the olives, tomatoes, garlic, bouquet garni or mixed herbs and stock or water. Return the meat and bacon to the pan then bring up to boiling point. Simmer for thirty minutes.
Carefully place the hot casserole in the haybox and cover and instructed. Leave for 4-5 hours. You may want to return your casserole to the hob for a 5-10 minutes to bring the casserole back up to a boiling temperature before serving.
Ingredients (Serves 4)
500g celeriac root, unpeeled
225g potato, unpeeled
120g chorizo chopped into small pieces
25g butter, cubed
75ml milk or cream
Handful of fresh parsley, chopped
Method
Scrub the celeriac well and remove all whiskery roots or hard to get knobbly bits. Scrub the potato. Place the vegetables in the saucepan that fits into your haybox. If you are having trouble fitting them into the same pan you can cut them into large pieces. Cover with water then bring to the boil and cook for 15 minutes. Place in the haybox along side the casserole for 4-5 hours. The vegetables may be cooked sooner than the casserole but will come to no harm if left longer.
Shortly before the celeriac and potato are cooked, heat a frying pan over a medium high heat. Add the chopped chorizo then cook until browned. You shouldn’t need to add any additional fat as the chorizo will produce its own oil. Remove from the heat and reserve the sausage and its oil until required.
Drain the celeriac and potato and remove the skins from both. Rinse out the saucepan. Cut into pieces then return to the pan and mash with the butter and milk or cream.
Add the chorizo and oil to the celeriac mixture then heat on the hob, stirring constantly, until hot. Just before serving stir in the parsley.
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