What aesthetic will define the 2020s?
On April 23th 2021 I posted a video deep diving into the accelerating trend cycle and microtrends that changed my life. If you watched it (it’s currently the only video pinned to my Tiktok page) perhaps it changed yours too. A question I am frequently asked is what happens next? Will we ever see anything new or is the trend cycle destined to repeat itself forever? The 2000s had Y2K, Mcbling, Logomania and Indie Sleaze, 2010s had Tumblr Girl, Internet Awesomesauce, and Athleisure. My running theory for what will define the overarching aesthetics of the 2020s are twofold, which is what we’ll be diving into today. I hope after reading this you feel inspired and HOPEFUL. Amongst the sea of fast fashion hauls and overconsumption, it can feel like we are spiraling into a decade with no identity or points of differentiation, but doesn’t have to be that way and I’ve seen evidence that points to the alternative- personal style and “new vintage”.
To quote my video (I’m not above quoting myself hehe) “my running theory is we will reach a point where there are so many microtrends, they will become impossible to identify, thus imploding the trend cycle as we know it and personal style will reign supreme.” Even in 7 short months since this video went viral, I have seen an increased amount of organic discourse, discussion and reference proving my theory accurate. Some plagiarism too, but that’s a topic for another day; because what’s important is PEOPLE ARE TALKING ABOUT IT and the conversation really has shifted. Perhaps my video gave folks the language to talk about it and truly see how deep marketing psychology cuts, perhaps I articulated what everyone else was thinking- the reason doesn’t really matter, what matters people are listening. The hashtag #personalstyle increased by +200% since April 2021. It’s not a coincidence either, this movement is powerful, freeing, and more sustainable than cycling through every trend in an attempt to keep up.
The second aesthetic I believe will define the 2020s is what Lyst’s Conscious Fashion Report has coined New Vintage. This has been apparent on the runway from legacy brands, emerging designers, and consumer behavior.
If we dive into the numbers, there was a 117% jump in demand for upcycled, recycled, repurposed and reworked items on Lyst year-over-year, a 321% spike in searches for upcycled jeans year-over-year, a 46% spike in searches for brands that offer garment repairs, 64% growth in demand for pre-order items which helps control supply by understanding demand before production. These numbers point to a shift in consumer desire for sustainability that directly impact their purchasing behavior.
Designers like Bode, Marine Serre and Collina Strada have featured recycled and deadstock fabrics in their collections. Lets not forget brands ARE businesses, they need to make money to survive. Understanding what’s important to consumers must be factored into business decisions in order to survive and stay relevant. 68% of highly empowered consumers plan to step up their efforts to identify brands that reduce environmental impact. Gen Z becoming brands target demographic for their purchasing power and influence makes up 40% of global consumers and will account for 40% of luxury purchases by 2035. 75% of Gen Z respondents said the #1 action they wanted to see from brands was that they ensure employee and consumer safety, with 73% wanting brands to protect their employees financially. This shift in priority within consumer purchasing behavior WILL impact sustainability efforts across fashion.
Timothy @relaxitsonlyfashion , made a video touching on designers like Chanel, Valentino, and Saint Laurent recreating vintage looks as a major theme shown during spring summer 2022 collections. What’s interesting is this points to an overarching theme in consumer behavior: vintage is in. Secondhand peer-to-peer ecomm sites like Depop, Poshmark, ThreadUp, Vestiaire Collective, and eBay have made it possible to shop secondhand right from your fingertips. Those who are looking for a unique wardrobe that doesn’t feel like copy/pate fast fashion are turning to these resources more and more.
What gives me the most hope is, in addition to brands shifting their sustainability efforts, thrifting, vintage collecting and archiving have skyrocketed in recent years. When I was a teen in the late 2000s early 2010s, very few were thrifting, and those who were weren’t talking about it. There was this very ugly classist taboo surrounding buying secondhand that has crumbled into something laughable over the last decade.
Sometimes it’s difficult to see the shift. Watching designer after designer send 80+ look collections down the runway during the SS22 season feels discouraging. Hearing how investors consider Shein’s business model the future of fashion feels discouraging. Watching influencers with no personal style glorify overconsumption via weekly fast fashion hauls feels discouraging. I want to be hopeful, because I really believe in this change but do understand it takes time.
When I look towards the future as a trend analyst who cares a great deal about sustainability and personal style (surprise, the two go hand in hand) I often feel scared about how this wave of abundant fast fashion is competing in tandem with thrifting and new vintage. It’s almost like having a disposable revolving-door wardrobe has become a trend in and of itself. Having been in that cycle myself, understanding how much more satisfying it is to have clothes for life I truly love that are good for the planet and good for my soul, I have to believe this is the future.
Abundance cannot replace value for the soul. Things are changing. I have hope.
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