PicoBlog

My new favorite pair of shoes came in the mail a few days ago: sporty, perforated-leather slingback Prada kitten heels with a pointed toe (likely from S/S 2000). After watching Mia Goth and Ethel Cain walk down Miu Miu’s FW 2023 runway in sleek, pointy kitten heels, I decided I needed my own pair.

There’s something ironically erotic about a Prada shoe, modest Mary Janes or horse girl riding boots set atop a chunky, sculptural piece of rubber or smooth wood—bonus points for butterfly shapes or leaves cut from leather and attached to the shoe like a vine (FW 1999). In muted shades of brown, green, oranges and pinks, 90’s and early 2000’s Prada shoes are coveted by collectors. 

When Miuccia Prada took over her family luggage company in 1978, a new perspective of feminist dressing was adopted into a male-dominated industry, with Yves Saint Laurent and Halston listed as the top selling brands of the decade. Sheer tops layered with pleated maxi skirts, sporty nylon tops, and rubber-soled riding boots became the new agenda. When Miu Miu was born as the ‘sister brand’ of Prada in 1993 (the same year Prada began its men’s collections), a similar era of nonchalant office-wear meets sheer sexiness was born: welcome ‘ugly-chic.’ 

"Ugly is attractive, ugly is exciting. Maybe because it is newer," Miuccia Prada told the Telegraph in 2013. "The investigation of ugliness is, to me, more interesting than the bourgeois idea of beauty. And why? Because ugly is human."

The Miu Miu girl is chic but playful and practical, modeled by celebrities like Drew Barrymore and Chloe Sevigny in early 90’s campaigns (pre-Ethel Cain and Mia Goth). The Miu Miu girl was, and still is, effortlessly cool, whether at the office or playing tennis. 

The 90’s and early 2000’s welcomed some of the most sought after shoes of 2023, likely popularized by Bella Hadid’s frequent wearing of her vintage Prada lug-sole boots, or the sheer success of Prada as a company. With Prada listed as the top-selling brand of 2022 and Miu Miu close behind, it’s no surprise the brands’ vintage pieces are sought out by collectors, and difficult to come by. 

21-year-old Rome-based vintage seller Mairead Troadec Bell began collecting Prada and Miu Miu two years ago. 

“I started investing in buying vintage designer pieces (Roberto Cavalli, Versace, Dolce and Gabbana) as well as Prada and Miu Miu,” Bell said. “And as I found more runway pieces, I really started to fixate on Miuccia Prada’s brands, I thought it was such simple but elegant and fun clothing…When I think of Prada, I go to the early 90’s. I think of long, beautiful gowns like the one worn by Carla Bruni in SS 1992, or all the long vests, skirts, coats and dresses seen in FW 1993, made of velvet, suede or camel hair.”

Bell has turned her collection (now consisting of around 40 to 50 pieces) into a business, running a successful vintage Prada and Miu Miu store, Existentialist Archive, via Instagram, Depop, and pop-up shops. 

“I feel that I can exclusively sell and collect [vintage] Prada and Miu Miu because of the fact that a lot of it is quite accessible to wear, yet you always have those few pieces that are funky and daring,” Bell said. “I’ve always found it’s the perfect mix. Especially since Prada and Miu Miu themselves are so different. Miu Miu is targeted to maybe a younger clientele, it has a lot more color and life to it whereas Prada is classy, elegant and so sophisticated all in one.”

Bell claims that Mary Jane-style shoes sell the fastest on her storefront, specifically square-toed styles made from leather or neoprene.

“I personally love the ugly-chic look of many of the shoes. I think the perfect example of that is these super tall Mary Jane style leather heels from FW 1996 with a very rounded toe and a flared heel,” Bell said. “They are so ugly that they become extremely cute and desirable…I think this added touch of the so-called ‘ugliness’ makes the pieces unique because it’s not typical, it’s daring…It makes you analyze and makes you come out of your comfort zone.”

Tessa Claire, a 24-year-old Prada and Miu Miu collector, echoed this interest in using Prada to elevate personal style.

“I found these Miu Miu heels from the late 90's (unfortunately they are falling apart) that have a super chunky rubber sole,” Claire said. “Usually, this isn't what I would go for…[but] I think that pieces such as these heels make you re-evaluate your personal style, or at least they did for me and I think that's really important.”

Claire started collecting vintage designer bags and clothing in 2017.

“In the beginning, I was mainly focused on Dior and their Galliano-era saddle bags, graphic prints and jewelry,” Claire said. “I slowly started to branch out in mid-2018 and that's when my love of late 90’s and early 2000’s Prada began. I still remember my first Prada bag; it was a small nylon crossbody I had found at a local consignment shop for super cheap and I was so excited…I have always loved the mix of textures and fabrics Prada uses…In Spring 1997, they focused on a more dreamy aesthetic, using materials that move with the body. There were a lot of sheer dresses with tailored seams that make the pieces flow effortlessly. When comparing this to S/S 1999, we can see its almost completely opposite. The fabrics are much more rigid, with lots of nylon and canvas…There is not one specific look. Prada leaves room for the ability to play around with your personal style and see what exactly works for you.”

Bell’s favorite piece in her collection is a full-length long sleeve wool gown from SS 1993, with ‘long sleeves, lines of fringes on the bodice and skirt, a slit on each side of the dress where a satin silk underskirt is revealed.’ Bell also owns an archival linen dress worn by Kate Moss in the summer collection.

Claire’s favorite shoes from her collection are metallic square toe Miu Miu heels from the mid to late 90s, purchased from Poshmark for $30. 

Claire is actively on the hunt for Miu Miu bubble sole heels.

Collecting designer labels like Prada and Miu Miu can be time consuming and frustrating, but not necessarily expensive. Claire recommends researching pieces before shopping on second-hand websites.

“Do your research and know what to look out for…I've found a few authentic vintage Miu Miu and Prada pieces this way,” Claire said. “Once you can recognize certain fabrics, colors, and textures that are common among whichever brand you choose, your eyes are automatically drawn to them. I find this especially easy for Prada, as they have done so many canvas and nylon purses that have very distinct color-ways.’

Bell offered her advice for building a collection. 

“My tips for finding rare Prada and Miu Miu is patience! Unfortunately, I feel like there aren’t many around,” Bell said. “I’ve heard Miuccia Prada is trying to find the earliest 90s pieces from sellers to add to her collection, so they are pretty rare to find.”

My beloved Prada shoes are at the shoe repair as we speak; vintage black leather riding boots that I’ve worn into the ground alongside my new pair of kitten heels. I’m getting them repaired so that I can wear them for the rest of my life. Prada shoes are timeless, after all—however ‘ugly’ they may be.

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